CHEONG, Francis 张成辉
Visual Arts,
Accession Number 003444
- Oral History Centre
Source
- 4
Total Reels
- Sian Eira Jay (Dr)
Interviewer
- 03:53:30
Total Running Time
- English
Language
Copyright Notice
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Reel/Disc 1 of 4
Metadata
- 18 Jan 2010
Recording Date
- 00:58:40
Running Time
- MP3
Format
- Open Access
Conditions Governing Access
Synopsis
*Born in Singapore in 1960. Three older brothers. Mother worked for British army at Dempsey for army doctors. Mother dressed well as attended army functions. Had clothes made by Kai Yi in Rangoon Road. Talked about the styles she wore. Included qi pao. Enjoyed watching women getting dressed up. Talked about mother buying foreign fabrics from Peking Store on North Bridge Road. These visits inspired him in later life. Talked about himself, not interested in playing with other children, liked to draw. When 12 – 13 years would copy and adapt illustrations from l’Officiale Magazine. Saved up to buy. Cost $39. Recalls some of the collections he saw. By secondary school was selling drawings to Fanfare magazine. Was looking for fashion talent. Paid $15 per image. Were few people in fashion at that stage. Recalled a maths teacher who wore clothes by John Yong who had shop in Gold Bell Tower. Recalls Japanese model Sakoyo Yamaguchi in Paris who he saw in magazine. Met her in 1980s. Her body was used as the first Asian manikin.
Father worked for Shell. Hated idea of his son going into fashion. Thought he would not make a living. Wanted him to do law. Francis thought he could do law and then do fashion. Decided study of law would be five years wasted.
Born Serangoon Gardens. Aged 6 moved to Upper Thompson. Father was buying property. Loved Upper Thompson. Recalls area around Faber Gardens being swamp. Talked about moving to Emerald Hill in 1995 and wanting to go back to Upper Thompson. Explained buying up two properties and designing the complete interiors and selling them after 4 months. Talked about his interior design ideas.
Went to Catholic High Primary and secondary on Queen Street. In school joined line dancing, pugilist society and table tennis. Played piano from young. Went to Royal Academy of Music in Singapore. Did not study hard at school. Recalled notebooks filled with drawings. Got good O levels and went to Junior College at Whitley Road. Talked about his classmates being very fashion savvy and having original ideas that Francis helped them make. Thinks young people were more experimental then. Fashion then was louder and more dramatic.
At home would drape towels into clothes ideas using his brother. Tthe importance of draping and how many of his designs are draped.
Talked about the fashion magazines and preference for Paris magazines. Fashion in Europe seen as more advanced, taught him about fabrics. His approach to fabrics.
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Reel/Disc 2 of 4
Metadata
- 18 Jan 2010
Recording Date
- 00:58:40
Running Time
- MP3
Format
- Open Access
Conditions Governing Access
Synopsis
*Continued talking about his approach to fabric and how he creates ideas and originates designs. Fashion and jewellery work together. Talked about beading of clothes and how he uses workshop in India.
Singapore magazines in 70s, Her World very new and trying to update fashion. Lacked sophistication and styling at that time. Remembers Female and Fanfare.
Late 70s and early 80s was boutique called Man and his Woman who brought in designer styles including Montana, Mughler, Kenzo etc. Was in Specialist Centre. Were first to bring in Gianni Versace in 1970s. Few people then understood the western designers philosophy of fashion. Talked about Versace whom he greatly admires.
Less well off women shopped at Robinson’s who brought in some more exclusive lines from London. Les Bijou had Terry as designer. He also dealt in second hand designer and vintage clothes. Galmorette appeared in 1980s. Joyce Boutique had many Indonesia clients and imported fabric for in house designers to create for clients. Mentions other boutiques: Cory Moroni in Lucky Plaza (fashionable knock offs) and Fabriani Boutique. Francis designed for Fabriani at $30 per design before he became known. Designs retailed at $600 – 700. Saw this as learning process. Mentions Metro, John Little, Isetan (Japanese imports beautiful made quality garments).
Completed A levels. Went into National service. Talked about his likes and dislikes in National service.
After NS decided to go ahead and try fashion. When in army would go for basic sewing and draping and pattern cutting training with old Shanghai tailor in side lane near where Heeren is now. Went there for 18 months. Wanted to go to St. Martins but family was against it.
Friend arranged for him to work for Tennyson Pte Ltd to design T-shirts. Left after 4 months as didn’t like it. Met Jean Yip who had hair salon and boutique in Arcade at Shenton called Just a Second. He began designing for her. Experience taught him commercial side of fashion. Stayed one and half years designing fashionable office wear. Began to be featured in local fashion magazines.
Had supplier – Mr. Tan – who bought in Japanese silk who agreed to partner with Francis and in 1984 set up boutique in Lucky Plaza, investing 30K each. Boutique was 400 square feet. After 2 years wanted to expand, so moved to Wisma Atria. Split with Tan. Talks about the designs he began making there. How designs developed.
Talked about fashion competition at Mandarin Hotel, rules, jusdges, themes. When first held in 1978 Tan Yoong won and Thomas wee participated. In 1981 Francis took part. Explains his work. Came second.
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Reel/Disc 3 of 4
Metadata
- 18 Jan 2010
Recording Date
- 00:58:11
Running Time
- MP3
Format
- Open Access
Conditions Governing Access
Synopsis
*Relationships between different designers. Close to Thomas wee and Bobby Chng. Talked about publicity and why fashion took off in 1970s and especially in 80s. More detail about the fashion competition and selection process.
His influences from archaeology how he likes anything old. Fascinated by old cultures he comes across during his travels to Europe, Middle East. Sketches and develops ideas. Will draw a collection in 30 minutes. Explained how he works on sketches for collection beginning with shape.
Clients in 1980s were Asians, lo0cal ladies, Saudi and in early 1990s Brunei Royals. Designed for Beyonce in 2009.
His collection of designer pieces and why he collects. Collected more in 1980s, too expensive now.
Difficulties of finding skilled people to support him, has in house workers many trained on job. Importance of skilled support.
Took two years sabbatical in 1997. Wanted break after 13 years in business. Travelled. Came back and opened boutique in Paragon, and after 3 years moved to Orchard Hotel.
Designs have become more dramatic. Talked about people and press reaction to his designs. His philosophy of fashion. Challenges and difficulties of setting up again. Remaking contacts and younger clients having different tastes. Described the make up of his clothes and their structure. Peoples’ awareness of what he does. How he deals with clients.
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Reel/Disc 4 of 4
Metadata
- 25 Jan 2010
Recording Date
- 00:57:59
Running Time
- MP3
Format
- Open Access
Conditions Governing Access
Synopsis
*Talked about Fashion Week and how it has developed and helped Singapore as fashion centre. Also mentioned Singapore Fashion Festival and his participation in it in 2008. Fashion Week was to attract foreign buyers. Fashion Festival run by Singapore Tourist Board to attract shoppers. Believed Fashion Week has helped many local brands take off abroad. Explained why and how in more detail. Talked about western perception of Asian fashion.
Discussed challenges faced by young designers, different markets and need for them to move beyond Singapore. Likes Alldressedup, Womb, Daniel Yam, and how these cater to different clientele.
His approach to idea of National Costume. He once designed a national costume. Need for costume to evolve. Goes on to discuss role played by fashion schools here and importance of giving students a sound training in skills.
His involvement in film Dance of the Dragon and dressing Fann Wong. Also dressed stars like Zoe Tay and need to create spectacular dresses for special events. How he puts an outfit together. Talked about models in Singapore and working with Hanis who became Singapore’s first supermodel.
His bridal collection and about partnering with other brands.
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